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DW735 conversion to Byrd Shelix head

What an amazing difference! I’ve read that if you only have one spiral cutterhead in the shop, that you should put it in your planer. After all, don’t you plane to final thickness?

Well, I finally installed the Shelix head after buying it over 6 months ago. It took about 4 hours, including several interruptions from watching and playing with my twin granddaughters. I took a few photos, but their instructions that I downloaded from their website were very clear for someone familiar with snap ring pliers and chain tensioners. Just go slow and keep track of the order you take off parts. Here’s a pic of it installed.

Before I had to wear earplugs and could only take .01-.02″ off 6″ red oak without tripping the breaker. Now I can easily take .04-.06″ without bogging down at all and there’s no need for earplugs. And the finish is glass smooth. Money well spent.

With these Shelix heads and the Wixey electronic digital readout, it’s the perfect setup for a home shop!


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Leather and wood

Here’s a photo of some leather work I did on the portable altar. The leather is a Lattigo leather, very thick, so I had to compress the leather for the post to have enough clearance to set the snaps. The bottom is fixed, I used Loktite to prevent the screw from coming loose during use.

 I added a couple of crosses and rounded the corners. This is VERY easy to do after I figured out how to set the snaps.

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Different raking lights show different defects

One very important tool in my shop is my LED flashlight. It’s most important use is for finishing. It has two light levels and a focusing ring that allows me to focus the beam from wide too very narrow.

I wished photos could be shown here, but the only way to really see what a raking light can do for you is to try it.

The low beam wide angle is great for showing raised grain (even after raising the grain with water and sanding) and dips in the surface from over sanding. Then I wipe on mineral spirits and use a focused high beam to see areas that need to be filled or further sanded. Everything from machine marks to snipe, as well as gaps in edge banding, will jump out at you when using a raking light. I keep a pencil handy during this process, circling or marking the areas that need further sanding or filling.

The use of a raking light is essential in getting the best finish possible, and in the end, being satisfied with your project.

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DMT Extra Extra Fine Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone

Just picked this up at my local Woodcraft. For about the same price as a Norton 4000/8000, it has a dual personality in that it is more aggressive than a 4000 stone, yet gives an equivalent edge to the 8000 Norton.

I must say that it does not give the polish that an 8000 Norton stone does, but diamond stones have to be broken in for a while. Since this is my first diamond stone, I’m not sure how long that will take, and may end up using the rest of my Norton 8000, or a strop, until that time comes.

One thing I really like, other than that it never needs to be flattened, is that I can use it wet or dry. Wet seems better as its really abrasive, so the water is a good lubricant. I may try a bit of soap in my spray bottle though.

I’m also looking forward to sharpening my carving chisels without worrying about wearing grooves in my water stones. Of the couple I’ve sharpened so far it works great.

I plan on a sharpening day in the shop soon. Something I’ve never done before because of the amount of time it would take to sharpen every edge in my shop. Hopefully that will help break in my new sharpening friend!

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Mistakes can lead to better design

Mistakes happen on every project. They can be disheartening on occasion where you can’t recover, but I look at them as opportunities for better design. Here’s an example.

I discovered an unforeseen problem while working on a prototype portable altar. The top portion tilts up allowing you to open the wings on the altar below, but I didn’t have the clearance. Big mistake!

The solution was to move the hinge, and as a result it fixed the main problem, as well as three other minor issues.

1. I was now able to open the wings.
2. It fixed the issue of the top assembly sticking out over the front (another miscalculation).
3. It allowed me to move the stop blocks to the back instead of on top, giving the altar a much cleaner look.
4. Using a piano hinge in the back allowed me to get rid of the ugly hinges that were showing on the top.

This is the learning curve that comes with building a prototype. You make mistakes and learn from them.

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Creche dedication at Georgia State Capital building in Atlanta, GA

CrecheThis creche, located in the rotunda at the State Capital building in downtown Atlanta, GA., was dedicated yesterday December 23, 2014 by Archbishop Wilton Gregory (on the right). It was built by Eagle Scout Patrick Smith (on the left) for an Eagle Scout project. Religious exhibits like this are allowed in public places.

Patrick needed some advise on how to build the creche, so he came over to the shop and we sketched up a plan and steps to follow, and a materials list. I didn’t do any of the actual work, but I was happy to help any way I could.

Patrick is a terrific young man. Read his letter, it’s really cool!

Capitol letter

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Here’s the long and the short of it, screws that is

On a recent project I worked with a lot of 1/2″ material. Most hardware is intended for 3/4″ stock. So the obvious problem is that most of the screws supplied were too long. Now you can buy shorter 1/2″ screws, but when you mortise your hinges, 1/2″ screws are still too long.

Mortised butler hinge
Mortised butler hinge

So what do you do? You cut down the screws (I know what you’re saying, but that’s another post!) Here’s how I did it after trying to clamp the screws in a couple of different vices to no avail.

All you need is a scrap piece of hardwood, I used red oak. Drill a hole in the wood that’s equal to the shank size of the screw, screw in the screw like this and clamp the wood in a vise:

Screw into hardwood and clamped in a vise.
Screw into hardwood and clamped in a vise.

Then cut off the length with a fine hacksaw blade.

Cut with a fine tooted hacksaw.
Cut with a fine tooted hacksaw.

Then file the point with a file to get rid of any burrs that WILL wallow out the hole. Be sure you file it!

File to a point.
File to a point.

I suggest you pre-drill the holes in your project, and establish the threads before installing the cut screws.  While it’s a bit meticulous, especially when you need a lot of short screws, this method works great!

Long screws (left), cut screws (right).
Long screws (left), cut screws (right).
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Push piece, not the miter gauge

When I have to cut a long board on my table saw, I’ve had difficulty in the past pushing it through the cut without it twisting a couple of degrees one way or the other as it travels. It doesn’t matter if I’m using a miter gauge or my sled. This usually happens when I’m feeding a large piece through and I push either on the sled or the miter gauge, and that’s the problem. The trick is to push on the piece of wood itself not on the miter gauge. Another really big help is to wax your table saw top with car wax. That helps a lot and it also prevents rust.

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Protecting inlay from stain

I remember a while back about how I was puzzled on how period furniture had parts of the inlay that were NOT stained dark, while the rest of the inlay and the furniture itself appeared to have a dark stain. How was that done?

After some investigation on the internet and asking around, the answer was very simple. You don’t use a dark stain at all, but you use darker woods like walnut or mahogany and put a clear finish on it. Duh!

During the process of figuring that out, maybe a few months, I actually did a couple of pieces where I had to figure out the best way to protect the white parts of an inlay (holly, maple, whatever) after they were installed. After all, staining the piece before installing the inlay had a whole different set of problems, and I didn’t want to even go there.

To make a long story short, it can be done, and quite successfully so. The steps are to apply a couple of wash coats of  1.5# dewaxed shellac on the inlay before installation. The cans of Zinnser SealCoat are 2# cut, so just add some denatured alcohol to get it to 1.5#. You could use it full strength though, but that’s what I had laying around at the time.

Install the inlay, and tape it off with Frog tape cut in thin strips. I also tried automotive detail tape that you can buy at most any auto parts store. Whatever you use get a good seal using the edge of your fingernail.

Now apply the stain, let it dry, and carefully peel off the tape. It usually turns out very well. That is what I did on the sacristy table pictured on this site. Not bad at all.

The downside is the shellac does add color to the wood, so if you want the holly inlay to be really white, scrap this idea, and do it correctly, i.e. use a dark wood and forget the dark stain.

UPDATE: I attended a finishing class by Peter Gedry’s ( and he showed us a trick (much more of a skill), where he used a small brush and painted on the stain FREEHAND around the inlay. Not for the timid, but it works!