Who says you don’t have to sand?

I bought a #4 smoother with the intent of using it for final prep before finishing, i.e. eliminating the need for sanding. After several projects (2 vanities, medicine cabinet doors, shaker table, etc.) I’ve come to realize that sanding is still absolutely necessary. My smoother and/or hand scraper inevitably leaves chatter marks that are visible after the finish coats go on. I even wiped on mineral spirits and used a raking light in both directions prior to applying finish. From now on I will sand to 220 or so before applying the final finish coats.

By the way, my #4 is very sharp and takes whisper thin shavings, and it is cambered. These projects were either red oak or ash. The ash seems to be especially susceptible to tearout, so I back beveled the bevel down blade to 72 degrees. Ha! I miscalculated thinking it was bedded at 25 instead of the 45, so I added a 27 back bevel. Boy it leaves a nice clean cut though. Who says you need a high angle frog?!?!

How to add a full half bead to an inside curve

The fence of a router table prevents you from running a bead on an inside curve. I did some research online and found one guy that tapped his router base, added a pin (a bolt), and ran it hand held. Yikes!

So I came up with a way to do this much more safely by clamping my router lift and router vertically in my bench vise in portrait position (narrow dimension is left to right). Then I tapped an electrical nail strap for a bolt that became the “pin” that I ran my piece against. I then added a fence. It worked remarkably well. Watch a video here.